2021 Joiseph Gruner Veltliner Fogosch

Named after a fish typical in the Neusiedlersee, this is sourced from two vineyards, one close to the lake (Froschau) and a site higher up and much cooler than the Altenberg. For me, this is the estate’s most typically “Grüner” Grüner; textural and complex with baked apple, more creamy fruit, garden spices and soil – all well balanced by Joiseph’s airy but persistent and energizing acidity – the thread that weaves through all their wines. This is just luscious, inviting and a heart-breaker. Wine saw just over two-day’s skin contact; then aged in old, neutral barrels of various sizes on the fine lees before being bottled unfined and unfiltered with low SO2.