Saint-Aubin's Les Champlots sits high on the hill above the village, all limestone and thin soils, and Jean-Claude Bachelet farms it with a traditional, hands-on approach. The 2019 pairs a warm vintage's round fruit with the site's natural acidity: yellow apple, lemon curd and wet stone. It is drinking beautifully now with a little air. Try it with scallops or a roast chicken with tarragon.