The 2012 Brut Special Club Cramant Grand Cru is somehow both ample and focused. Slate, crushed rocks, dried herbs, pear and lemon confit abound in a super-expressive yet tightly-coiled Blanc de Blancs that speaks with real intensity. Readers should expect a Blanc de Blancs of gravitas and virile intensity. The Cramant is a wine for the dinner table. That much is plainly obvious. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.